A Very British Tart

Last weekend we had a guest from Japan - Shizuka, a friend of Shoo's who was over here on a buying trip for her little boutique in Kagoshima city. Her strict daily regime of jewellery, scarf and handbag buying yielded lots of bargains (from the point of view of the current strong yen), and I enjoyed the vicarious shopping. I admired her for being so focused and not succumbing to personal splurges - as I'm sure I would have.

Shizuka was an really great guest from a food point of view - eager to try anything new, and with a strange penchant for washing up (she actually brought her own apron - crazy lady). Well, if there's one favour I'll never turn down from anyone it's washing-up. Along with mopping, my other most-loathed household task.

Taking advantage of Shizuka's open mind and palate, I decided to surprise her and Shoo after their Saturday expedition to Portobello with this very British sweet: a buttery pastry case filled with luscious custard and topped with lusty pink rhubarb - I found some perfect neon stems on Berwick Street Market. This tart is to a meal what shocking pink lip-gloss is to a party outfit - it's not for every occasion but it makes a statement. There is nothing demure about this dessert.

The verdict - from Shizuka, Shoo and the flatmates as well - was positive. I admit it's a little time-consuming, especially if you're making your own pastry, but totally worth it.


Rhubarb & Custard Tart
Makes one 23cm tart

Pâte sucrée
200g flour
100g unsalted butter
2 tbsp sugar
1 egg yolk
few tbsp cold water

Crême patissière
4 egg yolks
125g sugar
25g flour
25g cornflour
1 vanilla pod
450ml milk
50ml single cream

Topping
450g rhubarb
150ml water
100g sugar

Start with the pâte sucrée. Sift the flour onto a work surface or into a bowl, rub the butter - straight from the fridge and cubed - into the flour with fingertips until it reaches the 'fine breadcrumbs' stage. Stir in the sugar. Make a well and tip in the egg yolk and a little water, and gradually work in the flour from the edges, until it comes together as a dough. Knead briefly and lightly until the dough is smooth, then refrigerate for at least 30 minutes, whilst you work on the other components.

For the crême patissière, whisk the egg yolks and caster sugar until pale, thick and creamy. Whisk in the flours. Bring the milk and cream to boiling point with the vanilla pod. Remove the vanilla pod (wash and leave out to dry, then place in a jar of caster sugar for a stock of vanilla sugar). Slowly pour the milk onto the egg mixture, whisking all the time.

Transfer to a saucepan and heat very gently, stirring constantly, until you have a thick custard that will hold a soft peak for just a moment.

Leave the custard to cool and prepare the rhubarb. Wash and chop into sections varying between 2 and 5 centimetres (so that they can easily be arranged in concentric circles). Place the sugar and water in a saucepan. Heat until the sugar is dissolved, and bring to a very gentle simmer. Immerse the rhubarb in the syrup and simmer for three minutes, before lifting each piece out and laying on a plate to cool and absorb some of the syrup that coats it. You may need to do the rhubarb in two batches. Allow to cool completely.

Remove the pâte sucrée from the fridge, and roll out to just under half a centimetre in thickness. Press into a 23cm fluted tart case, ready greased and papered on the bottom. Place a sheet of baking paper inside, covering the edges too, and pour in baking beans. Bake at 160°C for 20 minutes, then remove the paper and beans and bake for another 5 minutes at 180°C.

Remove from the oven, allow to cool, then fill with the crême patissière, and top with the rhubarb, layed in concentric circles as mentioned earlier. Bake for 15 minutes at 180°C - this is mainly to give the rhubarb a little extra cooking time.

Pull tart out of the oven, and if its colour alone isn't frivolous enough for you, you can add to its trashiness by reducing the left over rhubarb syrup a little, and brushing over the stems to make them glisten. Cool completely before serving.